The Hida Kaido is a historic road connecting the mountainous area of Hida Takayama to Toyama and Matsumoto. Although only certain sections of the original route remain, there are excellent trails with stunning mountain scenery, hot spring ryokans, and culinary delights. The Hida Kaido is a perfect extension to walking the Nakasendo, hiking in the Northern Alps, or visiting Takayama City. Check out these four walks on the Hida Kaido for your next Nagano holiday.
Walking the Hida Kaido
Jizo Pass
The hike to Jizo Pass begins at Karasawa Falls. After seeing the falls up close and climbing the winding path through the forest, the trail comes out onto the road. Continue walking up the road, cutting into the forest trails wherever possible. Eventually, a Jizo Buddha statue marks the top of the pass. From there, descend again through the forest trail into the village below. A few sightseeing spots in the sleepy village include a pizza restaurant, Kiso Horse sanctuary, and local ice cream dairy. The entire walk is around 6 kilometers.
Access
With public transportation, take a taxi from Kisofukushima Station to Karasawa Falls (Karasawa Falls on Google Maps). Finish at the Kaidakogen Information Center and take a bus to Kisofukushima, Nishino Toge, or Mt. Ontake. By car, park at Karasawa no Taki. Finish at Kaidakogen Information Center and call a taxi to take you back to the car.
Nishino Pass
Nishino Pass is another attractive section of the Hida Kaido. From the Kaidashisho bus stop, follow the signs towards Nishino Pass and Joyama Observatory. The path changes from pavement to gravel road, then trail with rustic views of the surrounding countryside. Next, hike up the steep trail and make the extra effort to visit Joyama Observatory. It offers spectacular views of Mt. Ontake on clear days. Finally, descend into Nishino Village and spend the night at a ryokan or take the bus back to Kiso Fukushima. The walk is around 4 kilometers. Ambitious hikers can finish Jizo Pass and Nishino Pass in one day.
Access
With public transportation, alight at Kaidashisho bus stop. After walking, take a bus back from Yamaka Ryokan bus stop. By car, park at the Kaidashisho bus stop. Then, take a bus from Yamaka Ryokan back to the car.
See Nishino Pass in Google Maps.
Nomugi Pass
Technically called the Nomugi Kaido, Nomugi Pass is part of the greater Hida Kaido. This area was made famous by the 1979 film, Ah, Nomugi Pass. The main character exhausted herself walking the pass in winter to earn money in a silk factory. From the Otasuke Goya (お助け小屋), take the trail in either direction. There is no public transport or taxis around Nomugi Pass, so return on the same path to the parking lot. The course is not well-maintained in the summer when the grass is tall, so the best time to walk is Spring or Autumn.
Access
No public transportation runs near the Nomugi Pass trail, so we recommend traveling by car. There are two parking lots by the Otasuke Goya (see Otasuke Goya in Google Maps).
Mt. Ontake
Although not technically the Hida Kaido, many pilgrims traveled on the Hida Kaido to this area. Their objective was Mt. Ontake, the most sacred mountain in Japan for ascetic Shugendo practitioners and Japan's highest volcano after Mt. Fuji. Today, hikers enjoy climbing Ontake, although the top is not accessible due to an eruption in 2014. For the whole experience, join a waterfall meditation session at the mountain base. A ropeway takes hikers partway up the mountain, so return before it closes.
Access
Take a bus or car to Ontake Ropeway bus stop. From there, take the Ontake Ropeway up Mt. Ontake (see the Ontake Ropeway in Google Maps).
Conclusion
The Hida Kaido is an excellent extension to walking on the Nakasendo, hiking in the Northern Alps, or visiting Hida Takayama. Although this area is off the beaten track, it offers many lovely walks, and authentic Japanese mountain culture found nowhere else. So, make sure to visit the Hida Kaido on your next Nagano Holiday!
